In the Advisors Circle, one of the things we enjoy doing is experimenting with various techniques to breathe new life into familiar patterns. Today, Dyann and Melanie are showcasing their unique approaches to color-blocking the Fira Dress and Top!
Liesl frequently tosses around ideas for new patterns or tweaks to existing ones during her chats with the Advisors Circle. Recently, she brought up the topic of color-blocking, which happens to be a trending style for spring 2022. Both Melanie and Dyann were inspired to try this technique on the same pattern: the Fira Dress and Top. They each picked a different view, resulting in two distinct outcomes. Here they are to share their experiences in their own words.
Dyann's Color-Blocked Fira Dress
The Fira dress turned out to be a delightful pattern for color-blocking. I adore how the color from the back peeks over the shoulders on the yoke. Initially, I considered using a print for the front, but ultimately decided to keep it simple to highlight the elegance of the silhouette. The neckline is simply gorgeous.
The fabric I used is Kaufman’s Manchester yarn-dyed cotton in the Pepper and Royal colors. It has a substantial feel while still maintaining a lovely drape. For this dress, I only cut the front from Royal, while everything else was cut from Pepper, eliminating the need for any pattern adjustments.
A touch of thought went into the topstitching along the sleeve edges and hem. I wanted to avoid using the blue on the gray portions, so I opted for gray thread in the bobbin. When I reached the gray area, I flipped the dress over and sewed it from beneath.
I sized it at 10, which is my usual size in Liesl + Co. patterns. However, I did make a couple of adjustments for a better fit. I lowered the bust dart by 1 inch and pulled it back approximately half an inch, following tips from Lyndsey’s fantastic Fitting Room post. Additionally, I lengthened the bodice by 1.5 inches.
This version of the Fira dress looks stunning, and I’m eager to recreate it as a top in the future.
Melanie's Color-Blocked Fira Top
When challenged to color-block the Fira, I realized that the pattern offers plenty of room for style variations through additional seam lines. I decided to add a few more seams to create a harlequin-inspired design. I had some leftover shirt-weight denim from an earlier dress project, and since these fabrics are low-contrast, I thought alternating blocks of color would create a subtle yet impactful effect.
To adapt the Fira pattern for this vision, I made several modifications:
- Added a ½-inch seam allowance to the front panel instead of cutting on the fold.
- Added a ½-inch seam allowance to the outer back yoke instead of cutting on the fold.
- Shortened the top by 3 inches to fit within my fabric remnants.
- Created a hem facing from the darker denim to achieve a minimal ¼-inch hem depth.
- Pieced together smaller fabric scraps to form larger sections, especially for the yokes and body using the lighter fabric remnants.
Once all the adjustments were complete, I began cutting alternating colors for each section of the top. To stay organized, I sketched out a color plan. I carefully cut individual pieces from each color, ensuring they fit together properly and faced the correct directions. Cutting all the darker pieces first helped me ensure the lighter pieces were oriented correctly.
This was such a creative project, and I thoroughly enjoyed working with these lovely denim scraps. If you're considering a similar project, here are some key takeaways: first, pay close attention to the orientation of the pattern pieces to avoid mistakes like cutting two left front sides. Second, don’t hesitate to piece smaller sections together to create larger fabric blocks—patchwork blends seamlessly with color-blocking. Finally, embrace the joy of working with scrap fabric!
As always, happy sewing!
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