Men's Week: The ambiguous Milanese elegant men's Armani performs exceptionally well

In an age of increasing gender mobility, the power of gender ambiguity remains strong. This is especially evident in recent Milan. We saw a formal recovery on the runway, but that didn't mean going back to the previous ideal. The reason why today's pursuit of elegance is so attractive is precisely because it is ambiguous and subtle. Forget about Ziggy Stardust and Gorgeous Rock, think about the glamorous, silky smooth, slightly weird or outdated tailoring gentlemen.

Alessandro Dell'Acqua's N0.21 is constantly expanding the brand's vocabulary and portraying a more nuanced contemporary male image from its own perspective. From pullovers to fur coats, the success of N0.21 may have been defined by some simple redesigned pieces, but Dell'Acqua does not intend to stay on his honour because he has achieved commercial success. He said in the background: "As a designer, we have the responsibility to make new recommendations to the market, not just to meet the needs of the current market." In addition, this series is mainly about suits, jackets and tailoring: fiber and not thin, to Black-based, mainly used in silk fabrics reserved for haute couture, so it has a gender-blurred feel. Sailors nodded everywhere, and patent leather pants were designed for an obvious sex club undercurrent, so it's no surprise that Dell'Acqua was inspired by Rainer Fassbinder's Querelle. Comrade friendship. These works also show a lot of shadows with Helmut Lang in the 1990s - this is Dell'Acqua's favorite - it feels very relevant and timely.

At Pal Zileri, creative director Rocco Iannone produced the best collection for the brand since his appointment a year ago. Iannone's ambition for luxury, baroque décor, and his equally determined willingness to produce lifelong clothing, not just T-shirt fashion, is a balance between the two. After all, Pal Zileri evolved a lot, but not an experimental brand, but some interesting works, both gorgeous and sharp. Similarly, the combination of Haute Couture fabrics and tailoring – which means confrontation between men and women – is also a major topic, but Iannone's approach is much more extreme than Dell'Acqua. Although he has already honed his skills in Armani, neutral color is essential, but Iannone is still a color home. He mixes painting tones and rich textures with bluffs, and the oily yellow, brown, burgundy and grey blends are excellent. There are also some female works that follow the narrative in the play, but in the end it is only to attract the attention of the audience. Most importantly, there is a pretentious temperament throughout southern Italy that is both attractive and substantive.

After the men's and women's cooperation event held at Linate Airport last September, Giorgio Armani re-emphasized Emporio Armani on the Milan Men's Wear schedule. This move has revived the series and has become one of the best commercial series in recent years. This collection combines sporty, outdoor-style features, mountaineering diversity and urban speed. In the background, Mr. Armani expressed his intention: something less technological, more natural. The best time for Armani is when he becomes natural, and the product benefits: no new rubber and shiny synthetic fibers; all things, even artificial fur, have a tactile, intimate feeling. The shape is smooth and spacious, typical of Armani, neutral black and gray gradually become frosty white or cream. This is a clean, pure, real expression of Emporio Armani. However, the launch can be more rigorously streamlined and the entire show is incredibly long. But it is clear that the designer himself is proud of this and he should be proud.