Clothing fabric classification

       The garments are made of fabric, which is the material used to make the garment. As one of the three elements of clothing, fabrics can not only interpret the style and characteristics of clothing, but also directly influence the color and shape of clothing. Presenting its own noble and perfect, it feels soft.

Fold edit this paragraph concept

The material used to make the exterior of the garment is called the fabric. Clothing production is usually divided into: fabrics and linings and other accessories , some garments have no lining, so the most important thing for clothing is fabric. Fabrics usually account for more than 30% of the cost of clothing , so the quality of the fabric has a great impact on the finished product.

Fabrics of clothing can be divided into three categories: woven fabrics, knitted fabrics , natural enamel, leather, leather and imitation enamel, leather and leather fabrics (non-woven fabrics are rarely used in clothing, so they are ignored).

Fold edit this paragraph type

1 , cotton cloth

Cotton cloth is the general term for all kinds of cotton textiles. It is used to make fashion, casual wear, underwear and Shirts. It has the advantage of being easy to keep warm, soft, close-fitting, hygroscopic and breathable. Its shortcomings are that it is easy to shrink, easy to wrinkle, and not very aesthetically pleasing. It must be ironed frequently when worn.

2 , linen

Burlap is a fabric made of various hemp plant fibers such as hemp, linen, ramie, jute, sisal, and abaca. It is generally used to make casual wear and work clothes, and it is currently used to make ordinary summer clothes. Its advantages are extremely high strength, moisture absorption, heat conduction and good gas permeability. Its shortcoming is that it is not very comfortable to wear, the appearance is rough and blunt.

3 , silk

Silk is a general term for various silk fabrics that are woven from silk. Like cotton, it has many varieties and different personalities. It can be used to make a variety of garments, especially for making women's clothing. Its strengths are light, fit, soft, smooth, breathable, colorful, shiny, elegant and comfortable. Its shortcoming is that it is prone to wrinkles, easy to absorb, not strong enough, and faded faster.

4 , woolen cloth

Wool, also known as wool, is a general term for fabrics woven from various types of wool and cashmere. It is usually used to make regular, upscale clothing such as dresses, suits, and coats. Its advantages are anti-wrinkle and abrasion resistance, soft hand feeling, elegant and crisp, flexible and warm. Its main disadvantage is that washing is more difficult, and it is not suitable for making summer clothes.

5 , leather

Leather is an animal fur fabric that has been tanning. It is mostly used to make fashion and winter clothes. It can be divided into two categories: one is the leather, which is the leather that has been dehaired. The second is suede, which is treated leather with a belt. Its advantages are light and warm, and elegant. Its shortcomings are expensive, high requirements for storage and care, so it is not suitable for popularization.

6 , chemical fiber

Chemical fiber is the abbreviation of chemical fiber. It is a textile made from a polymer compound as a raw material. Usually it is divided into two major categories of artificial fiber and synthetic fiber. Their common advantages are bright colors, soft texture, overhanging, smooth and comfortable. Their disadvantages are wear resistance, heat resistance, moisture absorption, and poor gas permeability, which are easily deformed by heat and are prone to static electricity. Although it can be used to make all kinds of clothing, but the overall grade is not high, it is difficult to be elegant.

7 , blended

Blended, a blend of natural fibers and chemical fibers in a certain ratio, can be used to make a variety of garments. Its strength is that it absorbs the advantages of cotton, hemp, silk, wool and chemical fiber, and avoids their respective shortcomings as much as possible, and is relatively inexpensive in value, so it is very popular.

Folding and editing this paragraph woven fabric

The weaving machine (including the shuttleless loom) is used to interweave the warp and weft to form a tissue structure , and the resulting cloth is called a woven fabric.

From the perspective of the final product, weaving fabrics can be divided into four categories: bleaching, dyeing, printing and yarn-dyed.

From the point of view of the use of raw materials, it can be divided into: cotton, polyester, hemp, silk, wool, blended, interwoven and so on.

The main apparel fabrics:

Folded wool textile products:

Pai Lisi: It is a wool blended polyester with smooth surface, light texture, smooth hand feeling, crisp wrinkle, easy to wash and dry, and good wearing performance.

Huada: It is also known as the rolling ting, the hand feels smooth and firm, the texture is tight and flexible, and the cloth surface is smooth and smooth.

What is the smell? It is different from the processing method of mixed fabrics. It has a scent of facial scent, a glutinous noodles and a blended scent. The scent of the scent is soft and natural, the shading is faintly visible, and the texture is not rough. It is not bad, there is body bone, the noodles are scented, the hair is clear, the texture is clear and smooth, and the hand feels slippery and crisp. Blended with astringent taste, it is crisp and wrinkle-resistant, easy to wash and hot, and has good shape retention.

Thin tweed: light texture, smooth feel, comfortable to wear, crisp, good moisture absorption, good ventilation.

Loose light wool fabric: It is easy to soft, loose structure, light weight, soft, elastic and breathable. It is comfortable to wear.

Melden: A kind of woollen fabric, full of feel, smooth and flat, firm and elastic, wearable and easy to pilling, soft and beautiful color.

Plush: Also known as sea tiger cashmere, the fluff is flat and standing, the hair is thick and firm, the warmth is good, the suede is bright and soft, the hand feels full and thick, warm and light, and has good durability.

Wool-adhesive products: good moisture absorption, easy to dye, fabric with good hand feeling, comfortable wearing, good drape and washing resistance.

Folded cotton textile products:

Flat cloth: simple structure, compact structure, firm and firm surface, and the surface is flat and lacks flexibility.

Fine cloth: The fabric is firmer than silk, the surface is smooth and clean, light and silky, soft and comfortable.

Poplin: fine texture, light and thin, soft, smooth, crisp, fine grain on the surface, full of luster, shiny and good texture.

Babai yarn: The texture is very light and thin. It has good comfort on the body, good moisture absorption and breathability, and is unique in appearance, thin and cool.

Khaki: The fabric is compact, thick and firm, with good abrasion resistance, crispness and clear texture.

Satin: The surface is smooth, delicate, soft to the touch, good in gloss, bright in color, and has a good elastic texture and is not easily deformed.

绉布: The cloth surface is not flat, also known as walnut, light and soft, smooth and novel, easy to dye.

Oxford cloth : It has a characteristic cotton fabric, which has soft hand feeling, natural luster, more venting on the cloth surface, comfortable wearing, and good flatness and shape retention.

Huada: It is also known as a type of fine twill cotton fabric. Its texture is thick, not too hard, resistant to wear and tear.

Cotton satin: It is a satin cotton product with silky luster and satin style. It has soft handfeel, thick texture, elasticity, comfortable wearing and good color appearance.

Corduroy: soft to the touch, straight fluff, clear lines, full fluff, firm and wearable.

Flannel: soft to the touch, good warmth, comfortable to wear, soft color on the fabric.

Woollen wool-like fabric: thick texture, full and firm hand, not easy to deform, good warmth.

Folding silk products:

( 1 ) . Spinning : The use of plain weave, using raw or semi-woven process, the warp and weft is generally not twisted or weak, the silk surface is relatively flat, and the spinning is light and firm.

( 2 ) . 绉 : Apply plain weave or other tissue, strengthen the warp by warp or weft, or strengthen the warp by warp and weft, showing a fabric that is obviously sturdy and elastic.

( 3 ) Satin : Apply satin weave, smooth and shiny fabric.

( 4 ) . 绫 : Applying a twill weave or a twill weave, the silk surface is a fabric with a sharp diagonal pattern.

( 5 ) Yarn : A fabric in which all or part of the yarn structure is applied, which is twisted by the weft of each of the weft and the warp yarn.

( 6 ) . Luo : All or part of the fabric of the Luo organization, twisted by the one or more than three odd-numbered wefts of the A and B warp, that is, Luo.

( 7 ) . Cashmere : All fabrics with velvet structure and fluffy or looped fabric.

( 8 ) . Brocade : Apply satin, twill weave, delicate and colorful yarn-dyed jacquard fabric.

( 9 ) . 绡 : Light-weight translucent fabric with plain or woven tissue.

( 10 ) . : Apply a variety of tissues and thick warp and weft threads, rich texture, hairy fabric.

( 11 ) . Ge : The application of plain weave, twill and its changing structure, through the hem, the fine latitude is thick, the texture is thick, and the silk surface is horizontally woven.

( 12 ) . 绨 : Apply plain weave, filament as warp, cotton or other yarn as weft, thicker fabric.

( 13 ) . 绢 : A fabric that is applied to plain weaves with a fine texture, smooth and crisp.

( 14 ) . Silk : Apply plain or variable texture, and the warp and weft are closely interwoven.

(15) whoof (engraved): by pass through off (back) the special silk plain weft manufactured or other organizations

Folding hemp textile products:

Pure linen fabric, rain linen, sticky linen, linen cotton, ramie silk, woven wire ( grey cloth, semi-bleaching cloth, dyed cloth, yarn-dyed fabric, printed cloth, bronzing cloth, hot silver cloth, coated cloth , scratching) Cloth, bamboo cloth, gold and silver cloth, double cloth, segment dyed cloth, jacquard cloth, PU coated cloth, composite cloth, plain weave, twill weave, interlaced, jacquard, yarn-dyed, blended, interwoven fabric, finished fabric )

Hemp cotton blend: cotton has good moisture absorption, good dyeing, good warmth, high strength of hemp, good natural luster, bright dyeing, not easy to fade, good heat resistance, blended with cotton and cotton, and the appearance is not as clean as cotton fabric but good gloss. It has a soft feeling, is quite cool, has good heat dissipation and is not easy to fade.

Folding and editing this section of knitwear fabric

Knitted fabrics can be divided into two categories from weaving methods: weft knitted fabrics and warp knitted fabrics.

1 ) Weft-knitted yarns are reciprocated (or circularly moved) from one side of the machine to the other, and a new knitting loop can be formed by the movement of the knitting needles. The weft knitted fabric yarn travels in a transverse direction, and the fabric is formed by weaving a row of yarns in a row and a row in a row direction. All the coils of a row are woven from a single yarn. The weft knitted fabric can be finished on a flat knitting machine or a circular machine.

2 ) Warp-knitted yarns are warp-knitted in warp-knitted fabrics, like warp yarns of woven fabrics, which are fed by warp beam, which are wound with a large number of parallel-arranged yarns on the warp, and with warp yarns. The axis is similar. The direction of the yarn in the warp knit is warp. A vertical coil is formed in one course and then moved diagonally to the other wales to form another coil in the next course. The yarns in the fabric longitudinal direction from one side to the other side of the "z" zigzagged, each of the coils in a row are all compiled from different yarns.

Folding weft knitted fabric

The weaving cloth is a weft knitted fabric by the principle of weft knitting machine from the lateral knitting. Weft-knitted fabrics are mostly used in the manufacture of underwear because of its moisture absorption, softness and elasticity.

Weft knitting machine is divided into

1. Flat machine: The flat machine is generally thicker than the cylindrical machine, and is mostly used on sweater woven sheets. In addition, the flat knitting machine is often used in knitting collars and sleeves because it can weave the required size without cutting. The flat collar and sleeves are actually ribbed structures. They are commonly used in 12G and 14G . The length limit of the leader is determined by the length of the flat machine, which can be woven to 30 inches. Generally, the flat machine can weave the cross between the two colors, and the spacing can be controlled at will. As for the jacquard collar, it is necessary to have a flat machine for jacquard equipment to be woven.

2. Single-sided machine: The single-sided machine only has the lower needle and the needle for weaving, so its fabric has a distinct underside.

3. Plain weave machine: The main function of the plain weave machine is to weave plain weave fabric, such as plain weave, plain weave, etc. If it can match the design of the yarn nozzle, it can be woven with cotton and plain weave. If it is equipped with needles and corners and stitches, weaving single beads, double beads and unit clothes. The new plain weave machine has four corners. Arrange the stitches of four different heights, and then mix the needles and the corners of the mold to woven some small jacquard fabrics.

4. Double-position clothing: The structure of the double-position clothing is special, and the corners have a special design. Therefore, this machine can only weave double-position clothes and double-layer clothes of beads. If the corners and needle rings are replaced, it can be woven. Cloth and so on.

5. Towel machine: Towel machine and shearing machine belong to the same category. Strictly speaking, there are different ones. The towel machine and the ordinary plain weaving machine are respectively the design of the needle and the yarn guide.

6. Suspension machine: The wire-hanging machine is a new type of plain weaving machine plus hanging wire equipment. It can also weave ordinary plain cloth.

7. Automatic room weaving machine: Automatic room weaving machine is divided into computer room and mechanical room. It is mainly used to weave some transverse cloths, and its cycle and the length between each color are theoretically infinite. The reason why the automatic machine can weave the spacing specified by the modulus is mainly because each mold yarn nozzle is provided with four pairs of fingers, each finger is connected with a yarn branch of different colors, and when the selection of the finger is matched, You can control the color change of each line. Since there are only four fingers per die, only four or fewer color combinations can be woven. As for the woven four colors or more, it is necessary to determine the arrangement of the pitches and the method of arranging the yarns.

8. Jacquard weaving machine: refers to a machine that weaves different patterns of yarns of two or more different colors. The general jacquard weave machine is based on the principle of sending a needle with a flower hub, etc. ( most of them are like this ) . In addition, there is a full computer jacquard machine. The so-called computer jacquard machine pre-stores the pattern data on the computer disk, and then puts the disk into the computer of the loom, which is controlled by the computer for weaving.

9. Double-sided machine: Double-sided machine refers to a cylindrical machine with upper and lower dials. It is not an interlocking machine generally referred to. It is only one type of double-sided machine.

10. Interlocking Machine: Since the interlocking organization is a basic organization, the structure of the interlocking machine is designed for this type of organization. This type of machine will not have much change except for the left-woven interlocking organization and some pin-up organizations. A new type of matching needle containing corners can also be used to weave chicken cloth and double-sided cloth.

11. Rib Machine: The biggest difference between the rib machine and the interlock machine is that the upper and lower needle slots of the former are arranged side by side, while the latter are arranged opposite each other. The rib machine can weave more cloth than the interlocking machine. It can weave 1*1 rib, 2*2 wick cloth, chicken cloth and pearl cloth, or both concrete and random pin arrangement.

12. Automatic Inter-machine: The automatic double-sided machine is mainly an interlocking organization of some automatics. Occasionally, it also weaves the organization of some pin headers. It can be divided into two types: computer and mechanical.

13. Jacquard double-sided machine: The variety of jacquard double-disc machine is roughly the same. Jacquard double-sided cloth can be divided into two categories, one is a patterned jacquard woven with different color yarns, called inter-color jacquard cloth, and the other is used with blank yarn, using different coil arrangement and structure. The jacquard cloth is called a net color jacquard cloth.

Folded warp knitted fabric

The name of the warp knitting comes from weaving, and the knitted fabric weaved by the weaving machine is called a warp knitted fabric. Warp knitting and weft knitting differ in that the stitches formed by them are arranged in the vertical direction or the warp direction, and are formed by arranging adjacent yarns. The machine used for warp knitting looks a bit like a weaving machine. All the yarns are wound on the warp beam, and the warp beam is located behind and above the weaving area. All the yarns are fed into the weaving area at the same time. During the nesting process, each yarn is controlled by a separate needle. However, the yarn guide bar controls the position of the yarn, and the needle used each time it is looped may vary. The control of the needle can be carried out using a jacquard mechanism to produce a complex warp knit fabric. In view of the characteristics of the warp knitting process, the position of the yarn feeding device, and the mutual splicing between the parallel yarns, it is sometimes referred to as a warp knitting machine.

Fundamentally, warp knitting is a processing system for producing flat fabrics. The fabric has straight sides, high production speed and high yield. Warp knits can be categorized according to the characteristics of the equipment and fabric used. The main types are: Tricoco, Raschel, Milanese and Simples, the most common are Trikoto and Raschel.

Warp knitted fabrics mainly have two major categories of products:

One is Raschel fabric, the main feature is that the flower shape is large, the cloth surface is rough, and there are many holes, mainly for decorative fabric;

The second is tricol fabric, which has fine cloth surface and less color, but the output is high. It is mainly used for covering fabrics and printed fabrics. These fabrics are mostly used for chemical fiber filaments, otherwise the production efficiency is extremely low.

Warp knitted outerwear fabric

The outer fabrics made of polyester low-elastic yarns were extremely popular in the 1980s and have undergone tremendous development. A change in the tradition of knitted fabrics used in underwear.

1. Fabrics of imitation leather warp-knitted outerwear fabrics have received attention in the twentieth century, but the real development is nearly two or three years, which also reflects the advancement of fiber manufacturing technology and fabric finishing technology. Artificial suede fabric is also known as suede. This is a short, dense, fluffy microfiber product that looks like suede and is a good outerwear fabric. Artificial suede has a long history in China. Since the production of microfiber in Japan in the 1970s, and the introduction of this kind of raw material, China has also tried it, but it has not been promoted due to raw materials and finishing techniques. . However, the use of water-soluble polyurethane for rolling and baking instead of coating was of great significance. The artificial suede currently produced is generally made of polyester island microfiber. The three-comb Tricot machine is usually used to weave a tight and stable grey fabric. The pre-formed grey fabric should be pretreated ( often referred to as reduction ) to remove the stain and the surface of the fiber, so that the fiber is ultra-fine and dyed. . There is a process in which the dyed grey fabric is properly raised, then dipped in a polyurethane resin, dried, and then subjected to sanding treatment to obtain a fine, leathery fabric. The key to finishing is to remove the extra-fiber components and ensure that all the microfibers are loose. The second is polyurethane resin finishing to ensure a good leather feel. In addition, antistatic finishing is required to eliminate static and ashing of the fabric. Suede general use of E28 Tricot machine production, now useful to E32, E36 to get a more fine suede, improve product quality, while further improvements after also finishing on. 2 imitation leather coated fabric With the decline of popular leather clothing, imitation leather fabric came into being, the reason may be the low price, the coat and coat's stiff characteristics, the random design of the glossy color appearance. Generally such fabrics are available in conventional polyester. High shrinkage fiber and microfiber are used as the ground cloth to ensure the stability and stability. The full width weft insertion machine can be used to achieve the best requirements. The commonly used coating is PVC resin, which can obtain various colors and patterns, and can also be coated with PU resin, and various embossing patterns are rolled, which is also suitable for luggage materials.

2 , mesh color fashion fabrics on the mesh warp-knitted fabric to form a pattern, or add spandex to make elasticity, is an important fashion fabric, probably the following categories: 1 lace fabric is generally produced on the lace machine, usually The hexagonal mesh is used as the ground tissue, and then a plurality of combs are formed into a partial weft pattern. Of course, it can also be produced by a multi-comb with a gauze plate to form a pattern with a ridge. High-end people can use the multi-comb with Jaka to produce. At this time, the Jacquard machine forms a tissue, which results in different ground tissues in different segments of the multi-comb pattern, and greatly enriches the pattern effect. Because this machine can be used to produce large-size laces with high price, it has better economic benefits, so it is not economical to make fabrics. In recent years, most of these products have been added to spandex to form elastic lace-type fashion fabrics, which have a large market. 2 burnt-out warp-knitted fabrics are interwoven with polyester and cotton yarn ( or rayon, human cotton yarn ) , printed with acid paste in a certain pattern with a printing machine, and the cellulose fibers printed everywhere are rotted by concentrated sulfuric acid , formed by only polyester. The perforations are still preserved in the interwoven fabric of polyester and cotton, and the effect is similar to that of the multi-comb lace-like fabric. If you can use the full-width weft warp knitting machine, the polyester yarn is simply organized, and the cotton yarn or the human cotton spun yarn is used as the weft yarn. The burnt flower with this ground cloth will have a good effect and can be used as Women's fashion and decorative fabric, lace lace. 3 large-hole fabrics are made into simple large-hole eyes, and can also be set with woven fabrics. It is also popular in summer women's fashion.

3 , Jacquard color fabric with jacquard machine jacquard performance, forming a unique pattern of outerwear fabric. One- person cotton yarn Jacquard T -shirt fabrics These fabrics are made of polyester cotton spun yarn on polyester fabrics. The jacquard-shaped perforations, thin areas and thick areas are arranged according to the pattern, forming a unique flower pattern and comfortable wearing. Men's and women's T -shirt fabrics are now generally produced using JD machines with E14 or coarser numbers. When blended with acrylic yarn or wool nitrile, only the thin and thick areas of the Jacquard pattern can be used to make warmer long-sleeved T -shirt fabrics, and rayon and wool blended yarns have also been seen. 2 Jaka Float Fashion Fabric This is produced by RJWB series Jaccarat Shear Warp Knitting Machine. A typical type of machine is RJWB3/2F type. This machine has a pressing plate, which is followed by a ground yarn comb and a lining Jiaka comb, which are used to form a complex structure of the fabric. In front of the platen, there is a pressed yarn Jacquard comb, and a single yarn selection device (EFS) works with it to form a three-dimensional relief pattern on the thin transparent structure ( the meaning of WB in the model ) . Since the single yarn selection device is used for the front Jacquard comb of the press plate, each Jacquard yarn can be selected to enter or exit the work in the corresponding course, so that a separate relief pattern can be formed and connected in the longitudinal direction. The line segment has been cut. Therefore, the fabric is very similar to the multi-comb mechanism with Jaka. It can be used as a high-end women's fashion fabric, or a spandex comb can be used to produce elastic fabrics to meet the needs of high-end lingerie, swimsuits and bras. The model will be RJWB4/2F . This system also has the RJWB8/2F type, when the added bar can be used to expand the multi-comb pattern, or to make a four-comb elastic mesh cloth. There are also RJWBS4/2F and RJWBS5/1F . These machines are used to produce lace ( indicated by S ) . The former has two Jacquard combs, the latter only has a Jacquard comb in front of the gauze plate, and the Jaka comb after the gauze plate is replaced by two ground combs. Therefore, its organization is simple. The RJWB series of machines are fully computer controlled and expensive. They are about the same as the 56-78 comb comb - Jacqu machine.

4 , imitation silk wool-like warp-knitted fabric imitation silk and imitation wool, mostly by suitable raw materials and finishing methods. 1 The warp-knitted fabrics are mostly made of triangular-section fine-denier filaments (DPF is equal to about 1 ) . After being woven into a dense fabric by Tricot machine, the alkali-reduced finishing is used in the finishing process to make the polyester filaments achieve the desired luster. And soft touch, generally printed, to make blouse fabrics, skirts. In the trial production of imitation silk warp knitting products, it is necessary to explore the application of the pleats and pleats to create a unique style of warp knit. 2 imitation wool warp knitted fabrics China's wool-like filament materials mostly use ATY ( air deformation silk ) . Mostly used for woven fabrics, some are not well done and the results are not ideal. It should not be too difficult to weave on the tongue or groove needle warp knitting machine and should be explored. In the past few years, many different filaments can be used in some filaments with different cross-sections, different thicknesses, different shrinkage ratios, and after weaving into a grey fabric, some fibers with larger shrinkage shrinkage after finishing. The less shrinking fibers are bulky, giving the fabric a woolen fabric style. In order to increase the dimensional stability of the fabric, a three-comb structure can be used. Polyester microfiber and cotton blended yarns are now available in a variety of ratios. The fabric has a certain cashmere style that can be researched and developed.

Warp knitted underwear fabric

1. Cotton warp-knitted underwear is caused by problems such as yarn breakage and weaving and flying flowers due to entanglement of fur. Cotton yarns are often used only for warp knitting, and most of them are mesh products, which have been changed. Due to the use of combed, singeing and knotless cotton yarns, 28E warp knitted cotton yarn products have been made possible. In Germany, I have seen 80s cotton yarn and 40D spandex products interwoven on the 28ETricot warp knitting machine. And the cotton yarn can be placed in the front comb or in the back comb. The fabric is used as a high-end lingerie. Domestically produced 28E cotton yarn and polyester low-elastic silk interwoven products have been produced in batches. After dyeing, the appearance is similar to that of denim . The fundamental problem with cotton yarns that are difficult to warp is furry. The use of high-drop cotton combing, singeing and knotless cotton yarn has basically solved the problem. Chemical slurry sizing may be considered when necessary. This is not customary for warp knitting technicians, but is it not conventional in woven? The new material for cotton yarn that appears now is the use of nylon monofilament to wrap the cotton yarn. The cotton yarn is basically removed and the product has a corresponding style. But this material is expensive and needs to be customized.

2 , Simplex women's underwear by 32E Simplon warp knitting machine ( tongue needle or groove needle double needle bed ) with nylon filament weaving, both sides of the front coil, soft and clean, for high-end lingerie .

3 , elastic warp knitted underwear and tights such products are very popular , generally nylon and spandex fabric. One of the most famous stretch nets (Powernet) is produced with a raschel type four-comb warp knitting machine with 28E , 32E or higher marks. Because the mesh of the fabric is difficult to weave with a Tricot type four comb. Usually the comb with two nylon yarn before weaving, for the two weft insertion combs with spandex, the spandex yarn in an amount of 10 to 12%. The fabric has a high two-way elasticity, is very comfortable to wear, and has a tightening effect on the body shape, and is widely used in women's underwear. The commonly used warp-knitted elastic underwear fabric also has a Sardinian cloth, the name of which must have a satin appearance. Generally, it is a three-comb structure. The first two combs are woven with nylon filaments, and the rear combs are made of spandex. The amount of spandex is generally 6 to 10% . This type of fabric can also be woven on a Tricot machine. Elastic warp knitted underwear is a high-grade underwear fabric, so there is a trend of high machine number. In addition to the commonly used 28E , 32E , we have seen 36E , 40E products.

4 , bra with warp material multi-comb lace warp knitting raw materials, especially elastic type has been used in a large number of bras. Two years ago, a region used a large number of elastic lace-type raw materials to produce bras, which had a great impact on the original embroidered bra. In recent years, the use of double-needle bed spacer fabric bra cups has been mentioned on the agenda. In the past, most of the bra cups were made of foam, which was not washable, brittle, and difficult to handle. It is now well to solve these problems with spacer fabrics with a certain thickness and compressive elasticity. Raw materials used in warp-knitted underwear fabrics must have good moisture-conducting properties to keep the underwear dry and comfortable after contact with the human body. In the past, there was a discussion on the use of polypropylene fiber. Nowadays, the so-called ultra- fine denier polypropylene, in fact, has a DPF of about 0.8 , which belongs to the fine denier range, and the performance is unsatisfactory, so it is difficult to promote it. Now some chemical fiber companies, such as Dupont 's Tactel series, are PA type, in which aquato is a trilobal section with good moisture permeability. It is recommended as underwear and sportswear inner layer. Diabob is a four-groove shape. In addition to good moisture permeability, the product has a unique brilliance, smooth hand feeling and good drape. Interwoven with spandex for elastic underwear, ideal. Recently introduced Coolmax PE-based type, also four grooves canal structure, good absorption, humidity effect, and PE-wash and wear properties, a suitable underwear, sportswear, leisure wear material. When interlacing with Coolmax fibers and spandex, difficulty occurs during dyeing. Because the dyeing temperature exceeds 120 °C , the spandex will be seriously damaged or even broken, and the elastic recovery rate is greatly lost. In order to make Coolmax fiber dyeable at 120 °C , Lambergal DSP additives can be used in recent studies . When the agent is used for washing before dyeing, the cleaning effect of the fabric dirt, especially the silicone oil-containing agent, can be obviously improved, and the dyeing color point, color stain and color flower phenomenon are greatly reduced. In addition , the dye bath with DSP additive increases the plasticizing and swelling of the PE fiber, making the dye easier to enter the interior of the molecule. DSP also greatly increases the solubility and diffusion ability of disperse dyes in the dyebath, thereby improving the dyeing ability, so that Coolmax achieves the desired dyeing effect, rubbing and color fastness when dyeing light, medium and dark colors. All of them are above grade 4 , and the moisture retention characteristics are maintained.

Folding and editing this paragraph suede fabric

We now have called "fur", it is called "fur", but also to say "fur", and different opinions. In fact traced, "fur", "fur", "Fur" at different times in different people's titles, of which there are many allusions in it.

1 , suede

The traditional Chinese craftsmanship process was formed at the end of the Shang Dynasty more than 3,000 years ago. The Shang Dynasty was the first to invent the cooked leather craftsmanship in Chinese history. People made fur garments through the fur of the cooked animals, and "pooling resources" made into a gorgeous coat fur coat, so the North has been used to called "fur," Bi Gan is also regarded as a "Chinese fur originator of" future generations.

Suede garments can be divided into two categories according to their use: one is wearing Mao costumes for the purpose of protecting the cold ; the other is wearing fur garments ( also called fur suede garments ) with the main purpose of decoration .

a , fox tanned leather

Silver fox hair is characterized by a relatively long hair, usually 7-9CM; the length of the needle is not uniform , and it is thicker than other foxes , and the surface is shiny. Its true color is gray and black.

The blue fox is fine and tidy , the shiny surface is shiny, the length is shorter than the silver fox fur, generally 5-6CM , the natural color of the blue fox is white, and the clothing is generally dyed.

The characteristics of the red fox fur are similar to those of the blue fox, but they are slightly longer than the red fox, and the full color is red and gray, which is used for clothing without dyeing.

b , goat tanned leather

The goat's tanned hair is thin and not easy to shed. The needle is thick and the direction is not completely smooth. The front of the goat's leather is all leather. It can be made into suede, spray, print and roll into different effects. Goat tanned leather can be dyed to the different colors required.

c , rabbit fur leather

White rabbit

White-haired rabbits have less leather undercoat and can be dyed in the various colors required.

Grass yellow rabbit

The grass yellow rabbit hair pin is slightly longer, and the clothing is generally used in its true color.

Rex rabbit

The hair is soft and fine, smooth and delicate, and is less prone to hair loss than other rabbit hairs. The rabbit hair is the best in rabbit hair.

Mink leather

The water bristles are better than other tanning leathers, and the touch is particularly smooth, which is less prone to hair loss.

2 , fur

In the colony of old Shanghai, many Italian businessmen opened fur shops in Shanghai and marked “FUR” in English , but they were afraid that the Chinese could not understand it, so the translation was called “ fur ” . This kind of name has been used. just now. So there has always been a saying: the north is centered on Beijing and the south is centered on Shanghai.

3 , fur

From the Cantonese dialect, it has gradually replaced the word " skin " and become the mainstream word. Why Cantonese dialect with "grass" is set morpheme word it? We can confirm this from the idiom " barren land " . Cantonese dialect word "fur" in the "grass" is "barren" in the "hair", "grass" and "hair" is synonymous morpheme. “The land of hairlessness ” refers to the place where the grass is not long. In turn, “ fur ” refers to “ fur ” .

The suede is a high-grade natural accessory fabric made from animal hair with special chemical treatment and processing. He has the advantages of lightness, softness and beauty, and is mainly used for warm clothing.

The quality of suede is good or bad. There are four words that must be mastered, that is, “ look, blow, touch, and grasp ” . Look at the pattern, luster, and color of the fur. Blowing is to see the softness of the hair and the fineness of the fluff. Touch is to touch the smooth, delicate and rough degree of the fur. Grasping is the softness of scratching the fur.

The mink is divided into small hairs, large hairs, coarse furs and miscellaneous furs.

Folding and editing this paragraph of leather fabric

Leather refers to the leather that has been softened and breathable after being chemically treated, and is not easy to rot. It is also called leather. The leather used for clothing mainly consists of sheepskin, pigskin, cowhide and horseskin.

Cowhide : Cow leather is harder, divided into yellow cattle leather and buffalo leather. The pores of the yellow cattle leather are small and round, and the distribution is even and tight. The leather surface is fine, smooth and shiny, and the hand feels firm and elastic (do not have loose surface phenomenon). The surface of buffalo leather is uneven, the leather surface is rough, the pores are thicker and rarer than the yellow cowhide, and the texture is looser than the yellow cowhide.

Sheepskin : Goats are the best. The pores of goatskin are flat and arranged in fish scales. The hand feels soft and elastic, and the luster is natural. Sheepskin and pigskin can be made into both glossy and suede, but they are mainly glossy.

Pig skin : Pig leather has large pores , and each of the three holes is juxtaposed in a group, arranged in a triangle, each group being far apart. The leather surface is uneven and rough. At present, some air force suits are pig leather. After being shrunk, the leather has the same appearance and softness as the sheepskin. Due to the shrinkage, the large pores are almost invisible, and only the flattening reveals the triangular arrangement of the pores. This leather is economical.

Buckskin: It is a high-quality raw material for the production of suede.

In addition, there are horse skins: the surface of the horse leather has oval pores, the pores are larger than the sheepskin, and the yellow leather has large pores. The arrangement is regular and the leather is fine and soft.

Suede and leather are precious fabrics. The animal skin after tanning is generally referred to as suede, and the processed smooth or suede sheet is referred to as leather. Suede is the ideal material for cold-proof clothing, taking it warm, light, durable, and gorgeous and noble quality. The leather has been dyed to give a variety of appearance styles, which are very popular among people. In recent years, fur and leather garments have become popular mainstream, so it is necessary to understand and understand their structure.

Construction and composition of folded fur

The fur of a fur beast is composed of hair quilts and leather panels.毛被由针毛、绒毛和粗毛等三种体毛构成,它随着毛的生长过程而变换。针毛生长数量少,是长而伸出到最外部的毛,呈针状,具有一定的弹性和鲜丽的光泽,给毛皮以华丽的外观;绒毛生长数量多,是在针、粗毛下面密集生长着的纤细而柔软的毛,主要起保持调节体温的作用,绒毛的密度和厚度越大,毛皮的防寒性能就越好;粗毛的数量和长度介于针毛和绒毛之间,毛多呈弯曲状态,具有防水性和表现外观毛色和光泽的作用。 皮板是由表皮层、真皮层和皮下层组成的。表皮层很薄,主要起 保护动物 体免受外来伤害的作用,其牢度很低,在皮革加工中被除去。真皮层是原料皮的基本组成部分,也是鞣制成皮革的部分,分上下两层。上层的乳头层具有粒状构造,形成皮革表面的 “ 粒面效应 ” 。下层的网状层主要由胶原纤维、弹性纤维和网状纤维呈网状交错而构成,起使皮革结实、有弹性、能整体抗击外来冲击的作用。皮下层的主要成分是脂肪,非常松软,制革工序中要除去。

折叠 其它天然毛皮

天然毛皮主要来源于毛皮兽。一般兽毛皮是由表皮层及其表面密生着的针毛、绒毛、粗毛所组成,但因动物种类不同,则这几种毛组成比例不同,因而决定了毛皮的质量有高低、好坏之差异。用作服装材料的毛皮,以具有密生的绒毛、厚度厚、重量轻、含气性好为上乘。就服装用毛皮来说,有以下种类:

1 . 貂皮 分紫貂皮、白貂皮、黑貂皮、 水貂皮 等。其针毛粗、长、亮,毛被绵软,绒毛绸密,质软坚韧,为高级毛皮。用于服装的外套、长袍、披肩等。

2 . 水獭 皮毛被密生着大量的绒毛,其中含有粗毛,属针毛劣而绒毛好的皮种,其皮板坚韧有力。多用于服装的长、短大衣、毛皮帽等。

3 . 狐狸 毛皮因生长地区不同,有各种品种,如 红狐狸 、白狐狸、灰狐狸、银狐狸等,其质量有差异。一般北方产的狐狸皮品质较好,毛细绒足,皮板厚软,拉力强。狐皮的毛色光亮艳丽,属高级毛皮。多用于女用披肩、围巾、外套、斗蓬等。

4 .羔皮指羔羊毛皮,其毛被花弯绺絮多样,无针毛,整体为绒毛,色泽光润,皮板绵软耐用,为较珍贵的毛皮。一般用于外套、袖笼、衣领等。

5 .绵羊皮属中档毛皮,其毛被毛多呈弯曲状,粗毛退化后成绒毛,光泽柔和,皮板厚薄均匀、不板结。主要用来做帽、坎肩、衣里、褥垫等。

6 .貂毛皮皮大绒厚,皮色鲜艳,斑点清晰优美,绒毛短平油亮,较为珍贵。因属野生动物保护品种,目前很少使用。

7 .狗毛皮毛皮特点是针 毛峰 尖长,毛厚板韧,颜色甚多,一般用在被褥、衣里、帽子上。

8 .兔毛皮属低档毛皮,毛色较杂,毛绒丰厚,色泽光润,皮板柔软。可用于衣帽及童大衣等。

折叠 天然皮革

各种兽皮、鱼皮等的真皮层厚度比较厚的原皮,经单宁酸鞣皮或重铬酸钾的铬鞣、明矾鞣、油鞣等方法制成熟皮革,作为服装材料使用已有着悠久的历史。衣用皮革主要是服装革和鞋用革,多以猪、羊、牛、马、鹿皮为主要原料皮,此外鱼类皮革、爬虫类皮革也用于服装的装饰革及箱包等的加工制作。

目前,我们常见的几种服用皮革是:

兽皮革牛、羊、猪、马、鹿

海兽皮革海猪

鱼皮革鲨、鲸、海豚

爬虫皮革蛇、鳞鱼

1 .牛皮革牛皮革的结构特点是真皮组织中的纤维束相互垂直交错或略倾斜成网状交错,坚实致密,因而强度较大,耐磨耐折。粒面毛孔细密、分散、均匀,表面平整光滑,磨光后亮度较高,且透气性良好,是优良的服装材料。常用于袋料、运动上衣、鞋类及皮包类等。

2 .猪皮革猪皮的结构特点是真皮组织比较粗糙,且又不规则,毛根深且穿过皮层到脂肪层,因而皮革毛孔有空隙,透气性优于牛皮,但皮质粗糙、弹性欠佳。粒面凹凸不平,毛孔粗大而深,明显地三点组成一小撮则是猪皮革独有的风格。主要用于制鞋业。

3 .山羊皮革皮身较薄,真皮层的纤维皮质较细、在表面上平行排列较多,组织较紧密,所以表面有较强的光泽,且透气、柔韧、坚牢。粒面毛孔呈扁圆形斜伸入革内,粗纹向上凸,几个毛孔成一组呈鱼鳞状排列。被用于做外套、运动上衣等。

4 .绵羊皮革绵羊皮革的特点是表皮薄,革内纤维束交织紧密,成品革手感滑润,延伸性和弹性较好,但强度稍差。广泛用于服装、鞋、帽、手套、背包等。

5 .马皮革比牛皮革组织稍粗,特别是后背部分的皮质细密坚实,可用于制鞋。其毛孔稍大呈椭圆形,斜伸入革内,形成波浪形排列。马皮革在服装上用的较少。

此外,鹿皮革、蛇皮革、鳄鱼皮革等也常在衣用服装和装饰用具上有应用。

折叠 编辑本段 人造毛皮与皮革

裘皮与皮革服装的天然优越性,加深了人们对它的偏爱,其价值也随之大幅度地上涨,到今天,一件做工精细的高档裘皮服装,价值连城,已成为一种富有、高贵身份的象征。为了降低天然毛皮与皮革产品的成本,扩大其来源,近年来,人造毛皮与皮革有了较大发展。

1 .人造毛皮

人造毛皮是指采用机织、针织或胶粘的方式,在织物表面形成长短不一的绒毛,具有接近天然毛皮的外观和服用性能。

针织人造毛皮是指在针织毛皮机上采用长毛绒组织,由腈纶、氯纶或 粘胶纤维 做毛纱,在织物表面形成类似于针毛与绒毛的层结构。其外观相似于天然毛皮,且保暖性、透气性和弹性均较好。

机织人造毛皮是采用双层结构的经起毛组织,经割绒后在织物表面形成毛绒。这种人造毛皮绒毛固结牢固,毛绒整齐、弹性好,保暖与透气性可与天然毛皮相仿。

人造卷毛皮是采用胶粘法,在各种机织、针织或无纺织物的底布上粘满仿羔皮的卷毛纱线,从而形成天然毛皮外观特征的毛被。其表面有类似天然的花绺花弯,毛绒柔软,质地轻,保暖性和排湿透气性好,不易腐蚀,易洗易干,被广泛地用在各个方面。

2 .人造皮革

人造皮革主要是在棉布、化纤布等底布上,涂有乙烯、尼龙等,使表面具有类似于天然皮革的结构。乙烯涂制的人造革与天然皮革相比,有许多优点,如耐用性好、弹度、弹性好、不易变形、耐污易洗等,但缺少透气性和吸水性,影响穿着的舒适感。尼龙树脂制成的人造革比乙烯涂层人造革有所改观,增加了一定的透气和透湿效果。

聚氨酯合成革是近年发展起来的一种人造皮革,目前使用较为普遍。原因是这种合成皮革采用了具有微孔结构的聚氨酯作面层,以聚酯纤维制成的无纺织布作底布,既具有较好的耐水性和耐磨性,又提高了其透水汽性,仿真效果好,有类似于动物皮革的纤维结构,加之,易洗、易缝、易修补、价格便宜,因此成为一种广泛、普遍使用的产品。

折叠 天然皮革与仿皮革的鉴别;

1 .从材料切面的切口看,天然皮革是天然皮胶原纤维,人造革是针织布和涂布层,合成革是无纺布和涂布层。

2 .从材料燃烧气味鉴别:

天然皮革燃烧后有胶原蛋白味,其它则没有主要常用皮革的鉴别

1 .牛皮革:表面有细小花纹,手感好,花纹较深,用手指在皮革背面用力外顶表面花纹不消失 ( 其它:水牛皮表面粗糙,牦牛皮表面较细,柔软 )

2 .羊皮革:表面花纹清晰,花纹呈 水波纹 状,花纹深度较牛皮革浅 ( 其中绵羊皮革除以上特征外,质地柔软,弹性,手摸有弹性感和丝绒感 ) 。

3 .猪皮革:表面粗糙,毛孔大,毛孔深,三根一组成品字型,弹性好,透气性好 ( 其中抛光或压花后会好 — 些 ) 。

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